Hey all,
Thinking about getting another slot car in the near future (huzzah?), and am looking at the Fly Lola T70s.
Anyone got any thoughts, good or bad about them? I see that some places are selling the plain white kit ones for $65 + postage, whereas the pre-assembled and painted ones are doing their usual $89 + postage crap.
Not fussed about livery overall, I'd rather paint one up myself for the fun of it, so I'm leaning towards the kits.
How do they run, for one. Any tricks to do? Apart from ditch the silly Fly Classic tyres and throw some MJKs on it.
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Slotcar Outhouse uses
Slotcar Outhouse follows WEST AUSTRALIAN SLOT CAR RACING GROUP |
|
SLOT CAR OUTHOUSE is totally Independent. We are not sponsored, so we can provide readers with un-biased and honest evaluations of the models we review No "Pulp Fiction" no topics removed surreptitiously at the dead of night and no sponsors to placate here folks! |
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Thoughts on the Fly Lola T70s?
Thoughts on the Fly Lola T70s?
The Racer Administrator
Re: Thoughts on the Fly Lola T70s?
HI Rob
I did a white kit, watch the back of the head-lights if you do a kit, they will rub on the front tyres after all the glue is dry, i used a dremel to grind the bits back, use araldite when you do thyem so there is enough to hold it when the other bits are ground off. you could also put in a solid axle as opposed to the separate one in the car already - i didn`t - something to do later.
True and glue everything and get it up to about 90 -95 gms with some well placed weight.
I got my idea for the weight from `Paul The Texan` his are a dream to drive , stable & predictable, no nervous or twitchy car when you are at the limit chasing someone.
I did a white kit, watch the back of the head-lights if you do a kit, they will rub on the front tyres after all the glue is dry, i used a dremel to grind the bits back, use araldite when you do thyem so there is enough to hold it when the other bits are ground off. you could also put in a solid axle as opposed to the separate one in the car already - i didn`t - something to do later.
True and glue everything and get it up to about 90 -95 gms with some well placed weight.
I got my idea for the weight from `Paul The Texan` his are a dream to drive , stable & predictable, no nervous or twitchy car when you are at the limit chasing someone.
`It is better to enter a turn slow & come out fast, than to enter a turn fast & come out dead` Ferry Porsche
Re: Thoughts on the Fly Lola T70s?
I replaced the dodgy plastic front stub axles with a solid front axle. Fitted MJK's, dremeled off the motor shaft ends where they touch the tyres and fitted sleeves made from brass tube to the rear wheels where the axles push in as they tend to split easily as per most Fly classics, added a little weight , shimmed the rears to take out the sideplay and she's a decent slotcar.a silk purse from a pigs ear in less than an hour. I believe that if you wanted to retain independantly rotating fronts that cartrix do a suitable metal stub axle that fit straight in. (Have a look at the review of the Fly Chevron on this site, from memory that had cartrix stubs fitted so seeing as most of the Fly Classics use similar stubs and many of the fixes are generic accross the classic range I think it worth a read)
Re: Thoughts on the Fly Lola T70s?
Thank you for your answers guys.
I know what I'll be getting as my next purchase then.
What colour scheme to paint it in will be the very tough decision then!
I know what I'll be getting as my next purchase then.
What colour scheme to paint it in will be the very tough decision then!
The Racer Administrator
Re: Thoughts on the Fly Lola T70s?
Here is my paint job.
`It is better to enter a turn slow & come out fast, than to enter a turn fast & come out dead` Ferry Porsche
Re: Thoughts on the Fly Lola T70s?
One solution I use for those 'wobbly bits' is the famous 'wixle' arrangement. This is just as much at home on a Fly car as it is an SCX!!
The axle is sawn in two and a pair of small collars from the aero modeller shop are fitted to the inside of the stubs. This will give you steel stub axles. If you want to couple them but still allow some differential movement then slip a small length of snug fitting tube over the stubs on assembly!Don't forget to lube the tube!
The axle is sawn in two and a pair of small collars from the aero modeller shop are fitted to the inside of the stubs. This will give you steel stub axles. If you want to couple them but still allow some differential movement then slip a small length of snug fitting tube over the stubs on assembly!Don't forget to lube the tube!
When I'm not racing slotcars,
I'm out in the back yard, burning food!!