Re: Fly / GB Track Chevron

Bought or built something new? Show us here!

Re: Fly / GB Track Chevron

Postby yankfaraway » Wed 13 Aug, 2008 3:05 am

I too, discovered that loose screw tip for these cars late in the game. I bought several more specifically because I liked the cars so much more. They haven't been scarce at all, even the oldest ones, and I enjoy them every time.
Rob in Virginia
yankfaraway
Telemetry
 
Posts: 73
Joined: Wed 16 Jul, 2008 2:37 pm

Re: Fly / GB Track Chevron

Postby wixwacing » Mon 21 Jun, 2010 12:12 am

FLY/GB TRACK CHEVRON B19/21

By Rob Wessling


Image


I recently bought one of these models from a small on-line retailer. The GB TRACK Chevron had always been one of my "second string" 1/32 cars on my "To Buy" list. It had caught my eye from the beginning of my involvement in 1/32 (two years), but as often happens in the ever-growing marketplace, there was always some other MUST HAVE release to collect before the Chevron.

Fortunately that changed a week or so ago and I finally got the chance to try one of these fantastic little models. As seen by the photo's, mine is the WYNN'S sponsored #6 car driven by JODY SHECKTER (he is also an excellent Motor-sport commentator by the way, a very knowledgeable man!).

I know very little of the history of the prototype of this model, suffice to say the two seat B21 version was initially manufactured in 1972, seeing service in the European 2-litre sports car championship. The earlier B19 was a single seat version, utilizing many of the earlier B16 series Chevrons that had been "cut about" to create the later model racer. Most of these chassis made use of the Cosworth FVC four-cylinder power plant for motive power.

The GB TRACK model of this great series of race cars offers quite a "history" to 1/32 enthusiasts in it's own right! This series of GB TRACK model were first released to the buying public in 1999 (well before my time in the hobby). A cheaper version of FLY, GB TRACK was initially meant to be a less detailed model, appealing to the budget end of our market (GB= Great Buy).

Once you eyeball a version of these beauties in "real time" though, the concept seems to have fallen by the wayside somewhere between conception and final product! They are very nicely detailed for the prototype they depict. Cockpit detail is minimal (as you'd expect), although the driver figure is very nicely painted indeed. Points of interest are the twin chrome fuel fillers, carburettor induction rams, roll cage and one of the most exquisitely detailed rear clips I have seen (trans-axle/ and rear suspension struts featuring separate springs). The "Super Size" rear view mirror is a bit of an eyesore though considering the otherwise svelte lines of this model, no doubt it would be to scale, BUT I wasted no time in removing the one on my model. It won't take long to become dislodged as it is, a few spirited laps will see it keen to part company with its "host"……


Image


STANDARD OUT OF BOX TESTING (SOOB) was next on my agenda for the day, I was very keen to get this little sucker on the track to see how it went. On a slightly dirty track (probably 2 or 3 three tenths off its best) I netted a best time of 7.1 seconds. Nothing outstanding, BUT I did witness the major flaw with the GB TRACK Chevron first-hand, that of a rear axle assembly that is in need of shimming (Thanks to my buddy DE38/Charlie for giving me the heads up on this fault prior to testing).

This caused binding in some of the tighter corners on Millennium Raceway, making the rear axle "hop". Otherwise I got the feeling that this model, once sorted would make for some VERY enjoyable racing. Magnetic down-force is minimal thanks to the FLY button mag, but the acceleration and general feel of the chassis was good, I WAS EXCITED!

As an aside, I fitted INDY GRIPS (new compound) IG3003 onto the back of the Chevron after running initial SOOB testing. Results were very surprising, gaining a best lap of 6.5 seconds from the tyre change. Realizing that this was only a "quick fix" I made ready to tune up this little Beastie to see how it went after some TLC……

I enjoy tuning my models for running here at Millennium, I know its not everyone's "Cup of Tea", but I find tuning helps in gaining that little bit extra from an otherwise stock chassis.


Image


The GB TRACK Chevron proved to be slightly more demanding to true than many other models that I've messed about with. I'll run through it for you and leave the decision on what if any steps you wish to undertake (if you aren't confident, DON'T attempt it, OK?).

First up was front-end truing. I personally prefer the "Independent" style of front end over the more usual one axle number found in most cars. I was glad to see the GB TRACK Chevron offered an Independent suspension exhibiting very good tolerances with VERY LITTLE slop as is often the case with this style of set-up. In fact the overall fit was so good, I had a great deal of trouble removing the front wheels off the axle stubs! Very tight, I needed to "call in" the big guns (pliers), and using a firm but progressive hand, slowly eased the rims off the axle stubs. Once apart I proceeded to true the wheels, which were quite true as it turned out. Next step was truing the front tyres, I found the rubber on this model quite difference from other models I've worked on, in that the rubber compound seemed to have a Vinyl feel to it. Very resilient, I took my time and tidied them up quite nicely. Deciding to try something a little different, I re-assembled the front end using brass CARTRIX BMW Z3 axle stubs. I found them to be quite a firm fit into the chassis, but the front end was about as perfect as any Independent front-end I've done on a 1/32-scale model.

As mentioned earlier, its totally up to you as to whether you wish to mess with the front-end on this model, my example was reasonably true (better than the norm). There is nothing worse than trying to remove a plastic axle stub from an otherwise perfect wheel. I've met with this misfortune in the past, doing things such as this is ALWAYS a calculated risk!

I prefer brass stub axles, as they seem to bind less than a plastic to plastic fit. This is something often found in everyday mechanics, normal practice is to use different material to reduce the incidence of binding (I often pull things apart after building, so it's good to cater for this). I decided to go this way, I had the brass stub axles in the parts box and can always change back to the original plastic items at a later date if I wish.


Image


OK, front end complete, it was time to sort out the rear end. The motor was removed (sidewinder configuration), and put back in place with a few well placed drops of Super Glue. Wheels and tyres were chucked up and trued in the Dremel for a minor touch up (again very true in OOB form). I noted the rear tyre compound to be of a similar consistency to those on the front (not ideal IMHO).

With this task dispensed with it was time to set up the rear axle assembly, shimming (as described earlier) being the most critical portion of this phase. I don't know about you guys, BUT I hate shimming rear axles! Not only is it a "fiddly" business, it can also cost an arm and a leg when buying shims (at least over here at our local commercial Slot car track, a small packet can cost upwards of $10AUD). If anyone knows of a cheap source for axle shims, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!

The shim I used on this occasion were the PROFESSOR MOTOR "SONIC" (#18-160) Anodized aluminium spacers, coming in at .160'' long (approx. 3.92mm according to my vernier calipers).

Reasons for using this style of shim were simple as I HAD THEM ON-HAND. I figured it wouldn't be a problem filing to a suitable finished width using a Jewellers file (Aluminium = easy to file). This proved to be the case, finished shim width on this occasion was 1.45mm, or about half the original spacer width.


Image


After test fitting to make sure I'd got it all "right'', everything was re-assembled using a smidgen of LOCTITE 480 to hold the spur gear and both rims in place (great stuff, I highly recommend it). Just remember to lightly oil any bearing surfaces prior to re-assembly using this (or any) adhesive, if you get any excess come out of the rims, it won't gum up the works! Also remember to re-assemble a little on the "tight" side regarding tolerances (front and rear), you will find that as everything beds in, the tolerances will open up just a tad…..

With everything re-assembled and oiled, it was time to take the GB TRACK Chevron out on the track to see how it performed.

If I was EXCITED before, I was something MORE after a few laps with the completed model. Absolutely fun to drive, very fast acceleration and a good turn of top end pace, this thing just flew! Handling was excellent, offering maximum enjoyment through the "Tail-out" attitude this chassis gives during acceleration off corner apexes (nail this sucker to early and its going to step out on you).

A heavy magnet "barge" this model isn't, it's lively and just plain fun to push to the limits, I fell in love with the Chevron instantly! Best lap time was now a VERY respectable 5.8 seconds after tuning, not blindingly fast, but very, very good CONSIDERING the light button magnet and not so great stock tyres.


Image


As a conclusion to this test I decided to re-fit the new compound INDY GRIPS (IG 3003) to see if any improvement could be gained. Further testing showed an ever so slight advantage in best lap times turning in a best of 5.7 seconds. Nothing earth shattering, BUT overall balance was improved WITH better average lap performance than the standard rear tyres. I think that over the course of the days testing (OK, PLAYING!), the Millennium layout was the victim of our typical seasonal Westerly winds. I noticed an increase in dust/grunge on the circuit over the day and feel that the Indy Grips IG3003 Silicones would perform far better under ideal conditions. I might be wrong, BUT……


I really love this little model, it isn't a new release, in fact its quite "old hat" to many enthusiasts, but my suggestion to those enthusiasts that haven't sampled one and don't mind a little messing about to achieve optimum performance is GET ONE! They are an excellent chassis to race with a light magnet set-up (small trainer wheels…), offering loads of excitement for the price.

I have since purchased another one (a B21 two seater) to use as a running mate for this one, well that’s what I tell myself anyway when trying to justify getting another one! It was on special at SCALEXWORLD in Australia for the princely sum of $39.00AUD (plus freight).

I also noticed that Frank at SLOT CAR WORLD had some of the GB TRACK B19/21 Chevrons in the specials pages a little while ago for what could only be termed as "knock down" prices.

If you haven't indulged already, my suggestion would be to go out and grab one, they are a fantastic model.


Image


POST SCRIPT TO THIS REVIEW.....

Since writing this piece I have been made aware of a tuning tip that makes the GB Track Chevron (and all FLY models that use a similar rear pod arrangement) come alive.

Pay close attention to the screw tension on the rear pod assembly!

Loosening the screw tension to create a "moving" rear pod offers HUGE gains in on-track performance.

With the pod adjusted in this manner, the GB Track Chevron is capable of times in the VERY low 5 second bracket (more improvement than all other tuning procedures put together).

Best Wishes and Happy Racing,


Rob Wessling.
User avatar
wixwacing
Marshal!!!
 
Posts: 1900
Joined: Thu 10 Jul, 2008 8:22 pm


Return to Members Models

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

Untitled Document
Image hosted by Photobucket.com
Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Image hosted by Photobucket.com
Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Image hosted by Photobucket.com
Image hosted by Photobucket.com









































































































































Image hosted by Photobucket.com

cron